Analysis of Knockoff Cosmetics Utilizing Polarized Light Microscopy and Infrared Spectroscopy

Kalee A. Aiken, Jeff Hollifield, and Diana L. Delach

The recent expansion of the cosmetic industry has led to a high demand of counterfeit makeup products, which while not highly regulated, are increasingly affordable. A genuine James Charles Eyeshadow Palette was purchased from a reputable source and compared to an eyeshadow palette from Wish.com that was noticeably trying to replicate the original product. The purpose of this study was to compare the formulations and ingredients of both the real and knockoff eyeshadow palettes, and to analyze for any contaminants. Each eyeshadow sample was tested utilizing Polarized Light Microscopy (PLM) and Infrared Spectroscopy (IR). It was determined that the compared eyeshadows had distinctive differences in ingredients, optical properties, and in peaks appearing on their IR spectra. To date, no known contaminants, have been found in the real or knockoff eyeshadow samples.

• Kalee Aiken is a junior chemistry major with a forensic science minor who graduated from Wren High School in Piedmont, SC. She is planning to become a cosmetic chemist after graduating from Lander. Kalee is a member of the American Chemical Society (ACS), ESSO, and the co-founder and president of the Lander University Microscopy Association (LUMA).